Mountain Activities
A starting point for great adventures !
The hut is not just a place to rest, it’s also a strategic base for a wide range of legendary routes.
Whether you’re drawn to carving turns in fresh powder, exploring cracks in granite, or tackling steep ice, don’t hesitate to give us a call to check the current conditions.
In the meantime, to spark your sense of adventure, we’ve selected a few routes- some classic, others less so.
Due to the popularity and overcrowding of certain routes, it is strongly recommended to have backup plans (plan B, C… or even Z) to reduce risks. On our side, we try to suggest alternative itineraries to the major classics whenever possible.
Whatever you choose, never forget that the mountain always has the final say. Make sure you are properly equipped for your objective, carry enough water and bring a fully charged phone and headlamp.
If you have any doubts about the route or the conditions, contact the local guiding office or la Chamoniarde – they’ll help you make your climb a safe and successful one.
Mont Blanc Via the Three Monts Route
Climbing Mont Blanc via the Three Monts route is an iconic high-mountain ascent.
Often graded PD+, it remains a serious and committing outing: long, exposed, and potentially much more technical depending on conditions. It requires good physical preparation, proper acclimatisation, and solid technical mountaineering skills.
When ?
Spring: In May and June, the ascent can be done on ski mountaineering. Several sections require removing skis and using crampons, so a strong technical level and excellent mastery of equipment are essential.
Summer: This is the busiest period for climbing on foot, mainly June and July.
Autumn: Good conditions are sometimes still possible in September, with the advantage of fewer people on the route.
How?
Day 1
Take the Aiguille du Midi cable car, descend the Aiguille ridge, then cross the glacier to reach the hut.
Cable car : ~30 minutes
Glacier crossing : ~45 minutes
Day 2
Elevation gain/loss: +1,660 m / –1,660 m
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Refuge (3,613 m) → Tacul shoulder (4,100 m)
Approx. 2 hours. Crevassed terrain, exposed to seracs and avalanche risk.
Mont Maudit
Col Maudit (4,035 m) → Col du Mont Maudit (4,354 m)
Approx. 2 hours.
Check conditions carefully in advance: the key section below the Col du Mont Maudit (80 m at ~50°) can be snow or ice.
Mont Blanc
Col de la Brenva (4,309 m) → Mont Blanc summit (4,808 m)
Approx. 2 hours.
The main technical difficulties are behind you — time to enjoy the summit.
However, the route is far from over: the descent is long and fatigue is significant.
Descent Options
1 :Same route (abseil may be required at the Col du Mont Maudit
2 : Normal route: Bosses Ridge → Goûter Hut → Nid d’Aigle train
3 : Bosses Ridge → Grands Mulets → Plan de l’Aiguille (early season, on skis)
4 : North Face (early season, on skis)
Risks
Reaching the summit of Mont Blanc is a dream for many, but the route lies mostly above 4,000 m in a true high-mountain environment. The hazards are real and must not be underestimated: crevasses, avalanches, serac and rock fall, weather, altitude and hypoxia.
To reduce these risks, strong alpine safety skills and experience are essential.
If you have any doubts, hiring a UIAGM mountain guide is strongly recommended to reach the summit — and return — safely.
Ski Mountaineering
Classic Vallée Blanche (2.2 / E2 PD / S2)
A legendary route starting from the Aiguille du Midi and descending to Montenvers – or even Chamonix if conditions allow.
Although it can be done in a single day, we recommend extending the experience with a night at the hut. You’ll enjoy the calm of the high mountains by setting off from the refuge before the cable car opens.
Aiguille du Midi : Vallée Blanche classique
Several variants are possible: Petit Envers, Grand Envers, Vallée Noire, etc
Le col d’Entrève (2.3 / E1 PD / S3)
A great way to extend the Vallée Blanche or as a day tour for acclimatisation
Allow around 2 hours to reach the col.
Mont Blanc : Three Monts Traverse (PD+ III P4 4.1 / E2 D / S4)
An alternative to the normal route, sometimes skiable early in the season (mai/june). This is a demanding outing, taking around 4 to 6 hours to reach the summit, mostly above 4.000 m. Some sections require removing skis and using crampons. If conditions allow, the descent is recommended via the Bosses Ridge and the Grands Mulets.
La Tour ronde
Several routes are available:
Aiguille du Midi- Entrèves Traverse via the Brenva Glacier(4.2 / E2 D+ / S5)
Tour Ronde : Aiguille du Midi- Entrèves Traverse via the Brenva Glacier
Gervasutti Couloir
(AD II 5.2 / E2 TD / S5)
Tour Ronde : Couloir Gervasutti
East Face
(PD+ II P3 5.1 / E3 D / S5)
Rock Climbing & Alpine Rock Routes
The massif is renowned for its high-quality granite. From cracks to slabs and dihedrals, every climber will find something to enjoy.
Cosmiques Spur
Voie Rébuffat – Pierre
(D+ 6a>5b A0+ II X1 P2 E2)
A nice Route, though often busy.
Pointe Lachenal
Pilier E – Voie Contamine
(TD 6a+>5c II P2+)
Can be climbed even in cool conditions thanks to its sunny aspect.
Note: sparse protection and sometimes surprising grades.
Grand Capucin
Voie des Suisses
(TD+ 6a>6a+ III P2+)
Starts with dihedral climbing before finishing on a very steep face. Most belays are bolted or linked. Descent by abseil via O Sole Mio
Roi de Siam
Lifting du roi
(D+ 5c>5b II P2)
A magnificent 300 m route, mostly in the 5th grade, on excellent rock. Its south-east exposure makes it enjoyable from spring to autumn. Bring a set of cams and a few nuts to supplement the fixed gear.
Pointe Adolphe Rey
Super Lionel
(TD- 6a>5c+ II X1 P2 E4)
A 250 m route, mainly climbed in dihedrals.
Equipped with bolts and pitons, making route-finding easier, but a set of cams is still required.
Snow and Mixed Routes
West Ridge - Arête à Laurence (PD+ II P3 M1)
An easy ridge route, ideal for initiation and/or as a more exposed alternative way to reach the hut. The finish is right on our terrace — welcome!
Refuge des Cosmiques : West W (Arête à Laurence)
Aiguille du Midi
Cosmiques Ridge
(AD 4a>3c II P2)
A classic introductory alpine route.
⚠️ Very popular itinerary — expect crowds.
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Normal Route
(PD III X3 P4 3.3 / E2 AD+ / S4)
Often the first 4,000 m peak climbed from the hut. A true glacial atmosphere with crevasses and seracs, followed by a rocky summit section.
⚠️ Frequent serac falls and avalanche risk.
Pointe Lachenal
Pointe Lachenal – Camptocamp.org
La Traversée
(AD- 4a II P3)
A ridge route well suited for initiation. Includes a chimney with 4th-grade climbing; rock quality can be variable.
On the descent, beware of seracs from Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Mont Blanc - Three Monts Traverse (PD+ III P4 4.1 / E2 D / S4)
A long and demanding route requiring good acclimatisation, mostly above 4,000 m.
Allow around 6 hours for the ascent. Descent is possible via the Goûter route or by the same itinerary. Two ice axes are often recommended for the section below the Col du Maudit.
Gully
Cosmiques Spur
Cosmiques Icefall
(TD II X1 P3+ 5)
An ice gully leading to the Cosmiques Ridge, sometimes used as an alternative to its lower
⚠️ Rarely in condition.
Aiguille du Midi : Cascade des Cosmiques
Triangle du Tacul
Germans Gully
(TD II P3 5 M4)
An interesting alternative to the Chéré Gully.
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Gabarrou – Albinoni Gully
(TD- III X2 P3 4+ M4)
A 500 m gully requiring solid technical skills. East-facing, it catches the sun early.
Descent by abseil (max 60 m), or continue to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul and descend via the normal route.
Mont Blanc du Tacul : Goulotte Gabarrou – Albinoni
Afanassieff – Bodin Gully
(D+ IV P4 4 M3+)
A superb and wild gully. Descent via the normal route of Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Petit Capucin
Valéria Gully
(TD- II P2 4+ M3+)
A beautiful 300 m gully. Although east-facing, it is relatively well protected from the sun.
Do not linger on the approach between the Tacul Pyramid and Pointe Adolphe Rey — an area exposed to serac fall.